Paris Transport inside Paris
UPDATE 2022
I always much prefer the convenience of a day-long on-and-off-whenever-you-like pass, rather than buying individual tickets every time you get on or off. Paris Metro no longer uses single paper tickets, however, you can buy electronic versions of single tickets (t-tickets), and upload them onto the new "Navigo Easy pass" for visitors to the city (residents have a different kind of card, tied to their bank accounts). It's a pass that you buy, and then can "load" travel onto. Read about it here. or on the official RATP (Paris transport system name) website, here. This explains the t-ticket, and there is a link to the Navigo Easy Pass info, at the bottom. However, I'd give this website a look, too... it is also very informative about Metro and Train travel to, from, and inside of Paris, including the latest info on the Paris Visite card. The Paris Visite card is for tourists, allowing them to buy a pass for 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 days, starting whenever you purchase it (as opposed to a weekly regular pass for non-tourists, the regular Navigo, which is only Monday through Monday).
Everything you’ll do in Paris will be in Zone 1, I don’t think you’d even be in Zone 2, so you can limit your pass to that area. If you're arriving in Paris at the train station, after taking the Eurostar train over from London (through the Channel Tunnel!)... that station where you arrive, is called the Gare du Nord. You'll be able to find a ticket window there, for the Metro. (In the Gare [=Train Station], if signs say, "Grandes Lignes", that will head you to the area where the big train lines are going. Since you'll be looking to find the Metro (subway) lines, look for signs that say Metro. [NOTE: There are machines where you can buy tickets, too. Sometimes, though, American credit cards don't work in them. Mine worked last time, though.] Also, there is probably a Tourist Information desk (might be called, "Bureau d'Acceuil")... if you see one, you can go there to get your Paris Visite Metro passes, if you're going to use those.
USING THE METRO: Each line has a number, but you also need to notice what the name of the LAST stop is in each direction, so that you get on the train headed the way you need to go. For example, line 4 is one of the lines that stops at Gare du Nord. The last stop on the south end of line 4, is called, Mairie de Montrouge. The last stop at the north end, is called, Porte de Clignancourt. So... if you are at Gare du Nord, and you need to head south to get to your next Metro stop, you look for signs that say, "DIRECTION Mairie de Montrouge". That will head you to the platform to get on the line-4 train that is heading the direction you need to go.
Once you get off of your train, look for the big signs that head you either to an exit (SORTIE), or to where to head to switch to another train (CORRESPONDANCE) -- see images at the end of this post.
Here is the official RATP website, English version (RATP is the Paris transports company), with links to info about access to airports, and transport when visiting Paris . They mention the Paris Visite card, because they prefer that tourists use that. The page also explains how to use the Paris Subway (the Metro), and you can plug in the station where you are, and the one you want to go to, and it will tell you which lines to use, and where to switch trains, if needed. There are links there to maps… the one with streets, too, is a good one. There is also an app available somewhere, for your phone.
Eating in Paris
One thing to know about dining in Paris, is that dinner at a restaurant is never available before at least 7:30 pm (they use the 24 hour clock, and the symbol “h” for “o’clock”, so 7:30 pm is 19h30).
Lunch is pretty much set to maybe between noon and 2 (14h).
But, cafés might serve more at any time, though their food menus are much more limited (baguette sandwich with ham or cheese or both, or a salad, or a Croque-Monsieur, which is sort of yummy grilled ham-and-cheese sandwich that usually has a creamy béchamel sauce over it…you eat it with knife and fork). Another kind of low-key food place is a Bistrot or a Brasserie, will be more likely to have more food choices, available at different hours. This is a good web page in English about tips about dining, tipping, etc.
Of real restaurants, I can recommend these two, and then the Pizza restaurant below. The first two are very traditional fare, and definite favorites of my food-loving American friend, Ken Broadhurst, who lives in the Loire Valley of France now. He has written about these first two restaurants on his blog. They are on the same block of the same (busy) street, along the Seine river.
Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond
24, rue de la Grande Truanderie, 75001 Paris (map link)
(Metro stop “Etienne Marcel” on line 4)
A bouillon type of restaurant is an old classic... all-day service (this one is open noon to midnight, every day). Here is their menu in English.
They are non-fussy, with traditional cuisine, and sometimes you get seated right next to other diners.
Véronique Savoye, a tour guide with Rick Steves, shared a video of a recent visit there, showing you how charming the place is. She highly recommends it, and goes there when she visits Paris.
Le Trumilou
84, Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (Metro stop “Pont Marie” on line 7 OR stop “Hôtel de Ville” on both lines 1 and 11.)
http://ckenb.blogspot.com/2008/06/food-at-trumilou-restaurant.html
another on having lunch the first time at le Trumilou (from Ken’s blog)
Google maps link
Pizza Vesuvio (Saint Germain location)
1, rue Gozlin, 75006 Paris (Metro line 4, Stop: Saint-Germain-des-Pres)
I always end up at Pizza Vesuvio when I go to Paris. Great location (because I love the 6th arrondissement), and I lived in a boarding house around the corner when I was a student in Paris. Great wood-fire pizza, and other Italian fare. I bring friends here! (And, if you go there, check out the Romanesque-into-Gothic small church, Saint-Germain-des-Près... I LOVE this neighborhood.)
Here it is on Trip Advisor
Here it is on Google maps
For a really more bohemian, ethnic Eating Experience:
L'as du Fallafel (The Ace/Champion of Fallafel!)
I loved this place! But, it's a noisy, busy, crowded, young people kind of place... not a traditional sit-down-relax-eat-a-traditional-meal kind of place (so, keep that in mind). What it does offer is fabulous Mediterranean and Kosher noshes. Lots of offerings for vegetarians, but meat is offered, too. They are especially known for thieir huge falafel take-away sandwiches, but I preferred eating inside (the line was much shorter for that, too). English shouldn't be a problem here. It was delicious, and I had a huge plate of tasty treats. We went at lunch time. The Marais is also a great, old Paris neighborhood.
34 rue de Rosiers (the Marais section of Paris)-- 4th arrondissement
Métro: Line 1, stop: Saint-Paul
An area to walk in that is so Paris!
It’s in the 6th arrondissement, the Saint Germain area…. Rue de Buci, where it hits rue de Seine. You can take rue de Seine all the way down to the Seine. I like the skinny streets, and the daily morning market that is until noon, I think, at this corner.
Go to Google maps and just put in the café/bar that is on that corner, to get a map of the area and check it out. The bar is “Bar du marché”, 75 rue de Seine, 75006 Paris. (here is a direct google maps link to the corner of Rue de Buci and Rue de Seine )To get to that area, take line 4 of the Metro to the Saint Germain des Près metro stop: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paris_Métro_Line_4
That will let you out right at Boulevard Saint Germain (a main boulevard that’s good for walking and seeing cafés and shops), with rue de Rennes crossing it very close by (another street that, if you take it alllll the way AWAY from this area, will have you passing lots of shops of many kinds, and it has good side streets).
Right there at Boulevard Saint Germain and rue de Rennes/rue Bonaparte, you’ll see the very famous (and overpriced) café, Les Deux Magots. It’s across rue Bonaparte from a wonderful Romanesque era church, Saint-Germain-des-Près—the site of the oldest church in Paris.
Café de Flore is on the other side of Les Deux Magots, and both were ultra famous for being where the Existentialists (like Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir) used to hang out all day (in fact, there is a plaque to them on that corner somewhere).
So… to get to the Buci area, take Boulevard Saint Michel away from Les Deux Magots, pass Saint-Germain des Près church, and after rue Cardinale and rue de l’échaudé, you’ll hit Buci. Just take that and go exploring. When you hit rue de Seine, go left, and you’re heading in the direction of the Seine, and Notre Dame cathedral! A nice street that is great for the antiques-shopping crowd, is rue Jacob. I’ve stayed on a couple of hotels here (Hotel d’Angleterre and Millésime). You could take rue Jacob to rue Bonaparte, and take that down to the Seine, or just stay on rue de Seine as it winds down to the Seine. All of the side streets have little shops and little hotels. Just thought I’d point out a spot that I love to walk around in. (By the way, you can also take line 10 to the Mabillon Metro stop, but that stop isn’t always open, so S-G-des Près is a better bet.)
Walk Around Here!
This area is where Boulevard Saint Michel meets the Seine... see Notre Dame over there? Woo hoo! This is Pont St Michel. This is an interesting (and famous) fountain/monument here, called Fontaine Saint-Michel. Apparently, it depicts the archangel Michael vanquishing the devil, "evoking thoughts of the battle between good and evil" Take Metro line 4 to the Saint-Michel-Notre-Dame stop. This is a map view of the area. Notice the Art Nouveau style green iron sign and wall at the entry/exit to the Saint Michel Métro stop here. That's by artist Hector Guimard, who designed these for many of the early Métro stops in Paris.
The Latin Quarter
This is kind of the Paris that everyone thinks of when they think of little shops, little restaurants, and bohemian Paris (which also means, kind of old and a little seedy). It's the old (centuries old) center of university life, with the Sorbonne being nearby. It's all narrow streets and lots of life (and pickpockets again! Hold those purses close to you, zipped up, strapped across your body!). It's hard to say where exactly to go, but rue Mouffetard is a famous little street. Start here, at the Place de la Contrescarpe, and there's rue Lacépède behind you, and, to the left, is rue Mouffetard (where you see an old orange truck-looking-car, and the "Le Contrescarpe" café on the left). Lots of places to eat, or to grab take-away food from a window, and just walk around and soak in the old Paris feel. Note that it's especially lively and busy in the evening/night. To get to the area, try Metro line 7, stop Place Monge. Here's a map.
Rue Cler neighborhood
If you love the feeling of strolling down a cobbled street lined with food shops and market vendors, this is a wonderful spot to visit, in the 7th arrondissement. Rick Steves introduces it in this 4-minute video (which starts with him on a sight-seeing boat on the Seine... see below). The Paris Perfect website talks about visiting this street, here, with some great photos. Note that many of the stores are closed on Mondays. This Google maps Streetview link plops you down in the middle of the street, and this one brings you to the navigable map. Metro stop École Militaire, on line 8 of the Métro, gets you closest.
Paris Art & History Museums
(check links for websites with hours, cost, and Metro line & stop)
• Louvre – closed Tuesdays – Well… you’re going here, so… enjoy! Then, stroll around the Jardin des Tuileries park area across the road, where the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel is (this isn’t “THE” Arc de Triomphe… that one is on the Champs Elysées). This link to streetview of Google maps, has the Louvre pyramid to the left, and the Tuileries gardens to the right!
• Musée d’Orsay –closed Mondays – has wonderful Impressionist paintings (and similar era other styles… Van Gogh, Renoir, Cézanne, etc., Rodin and Claudel sculptures, Art Nouveau objects – wonderful place, built inside what used to be a train station. We very much enjoyed lunch at the restaurant, too. More info here at this Wikipedia page. Here is their official website.
• Cité de l’Architecture et de la Patrimoine -- closed Tuesdays--This is not really well known by tourists, but it is a great spot that I love to go to… because it has “mock ups” of all of the facades of well known cathedrals around France --- like the façade of Vézelay! Another link, to info in English. Metro stop Trocadero (lines 6 & 9)
• Musée de Cluny -- Musée National du Moyen Âge (Museum of medieval art and history)! -- closed Mondays-- One of my favorites, because I love medieval and Renaissance era things, like stained glass and stone carving and tapestries and enluminures (painted manuscripts and books). The amazing and very famous 6 tapestries of The Lady and the Unicorn are on display here. These depict the 5 senses, as well as the "sense" of desire, and are thought to have been commissioned by a man for his daughter, on the event of her marriage. Here's a quick video from travel writer Rick Steves, showing the Cluny and the tapestries.
• For more modern tastes, the famous Centre Pompidou in the Marais section (4th arrondissement) is something to see, even if just to see the really unusual design, but for really good contemporary art, there is the amazing Musée d'Art Moderne de Paris. Here's their basic info English version of the website. Closed on Mondays.
Non Art-Museum Things
Cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris: Towers (Tours) of Notre Dame • cathedral itself •
Parvis de Notre Dame (a sort of archeological crypt, under the area in front of the cathedral). UPDATE 2022: Obviously, since the big fire, Notre Dame is still closed to visitors, as it undergoes repairs.
The MAGNIFICENT Sainte Chapelle – Open every day--This is the place that Louis IX (Saint Louis) had built to house the crown of thorns relic. His symbols were the fleur de lys and the crown (for his father’s French royal heritage, and his mother’s Spanish royal heritage). They are the decorative elements all over the chapel. The upstairs has INCREDIBLE stained glass, that has recently been all cleaned and fully restored (at a cost of millions of Euros). There was an interesting little video playing up there, showing the work of the restoration. I love it. They also have classical music concerts on some evenings…. There is info below, about that. Not cheap, but very, very memorable.
Ste. Chapelle is actually on the grounds of the French government’s Palais de Justice… at this Google maps streetview link, you see the big black and gold gates of the grounds. That’s where you go in to head to Ste. Chapelle (you can see its pointy, Gothic spires sticking up back there!). Across the street, to the left, if you’re on the streetview, is a very nice Brasserie, called Les Deux Palais. I’ve eaten here twice. METRO LINE 4 , Stop: Cité
Jardin du Luxembourg – Luxembourg Gardens park. Free. It’s wonderful. Very big, and a relaxing place to get away from the noise and traffic and hectic pace of the city outside its walls. There is a spot with statues of the queens of France (interesting fact: unlike England, France never allowed reigning queens, so all French queens were just the wife of the reigning king), there is a puppet-show spot, there are shady spots, there are open and sunny spots to sit around the large pond. There is a palace there (I’ve never actually been inside! It’s used for something official.) There’s even a little Statue of Liberty somewhere. It’s a big space. In June, probably lots of flowers will be in bloom!
Eiffel Tower – (la Tour Eiffel)--I know that everyone wants to go UP the Eiffel Tower – but, I’ll tell you, that costs a good amount of TIME, and is kind of expensive (links on info). The TIME factor is the big one for me. If you don’t have a week in Paris, you might consider skipping the idea of going UP it, and instead, wait to go to the Eiffel Tower until late in the day, near dusk (which is very late, in the summer), because that’s when it is all lit up, and then it SPARKLES (!) for five minutes every hour, on the hour--- in the summer, it doesn’t start sparkling until at least the 10 pm (=22h) hour. So, you could avoid the lines and expense of going up, and just enjoy its beauty from underneath, or next to it. It’s something to do during the evening--- maybe plan to get there around 8:30 or 8:45, or so, so you can see it sparkle at 10 and 11 and probably midnight). You can also see it from way across the way, at the Palais de Chaillot --- you don’t have to go in to the Palais de Chaillot, but you would take the Metro or a cab or a bus to there (the stop is Trocadero, line 9, or line 6), and you’ll see that it’s a great area to observe the Eiffel Tower from a little distance. There is a huge length of steps there, that people sit on and take in the view. This Google map shows you kind of where all of that is situated, and then this link takes you to the streetview up where you enter the area of the Place du Trocadero (where the Palais de Chaillot is). Then, this streetview link shows you more of the Place du Trocadero as you walk closer in to the edge of it. This streetview link takes you down to the area around the water and the fountains of Place du Trocadero, closer to the street level of the Tower (but still across the busy street, at the base of the Palais de Chaillot). (OF course, this is another heavy pickpocket area, so just keep everything close and carefully held onto.)
Arc de Triomphe—The famous monument on the Champs Elysées. It’s smack dab in the middle of a hugely busy, multi-lane road, so, to get to it, you use the underground path. You can enjoy it from across the road, or enjoy it from standing right underneath, or you can actually climb up it, for a fee (covered by the pass). Here’s info. This is a NOTRORIOUS spot for pickpockets and other people harassing tourists, pretending to be your friend, welcoming you to Paris, trying to sell you things, or distract you while someone else picks your pocket. We were bothered by a guy who came up to us and tried to tie a “friendship string” around my finger, or something (as you can imagine, Elliot and I looked clearly like American tourists). I’m not sure what he was after, but those kinds of distraction techniques are typical when setting people up to be pickpocketed by someone else. They’ll act all offended when you tell them to go away, but they have no business invading your space, so feel free to tell them strongly to leave you alone. I was able to do it in French, yet he remained persistent, which was annoying.
Conciergerie – I have never been in here, though almost everyone goes here, and I have always wanted to! It always ends up closed when I have time to go. I’m not fully sure of what you see here, but it’s medieval, and it was the prison where they kept Marie Antoinette and King Louis. Here’s tourist info.
Auberge Nicolas Flamel-- This is reportedly the oldest auberge in Paris, and, if you're a fan of Harry Potter, you recognize the name of Nicolas Flamel! There was a real Nicolas Flamel--he and his wife, Pernelle, ran an inn, and did other things (they weren't exactly what the HP character was about... JK just used the name, mostly). It's fun just to walk by and see--you don't have to actually try to eat in the expensive restaurant. It's in the Marais.
A Castle Right In Paris! -- Le Château de Vincennes is a mediéval fortified castle, on the southeast edge of Paris, actually just outside the border of Paris, and into the suburb of Vincennes. It has been restored, and you can walk around outside, or go in (for a fee). If you don't have time to go to Le Val de Loire to see famous ruins of royal castles, it's a cool place to visit.
A Wonderful Palace -- Day trip to the Palace of Fontainebleau -- Everyone goes to the hugely overblown, glitzy Palace of Versailles. It has the this-is-what-led-up-to-the-Revolution gaudiness everywhere... crystal, gold, etc. For me, though, I much prefer a visit to the Palais de Fontainebleau, in the town of Fontainebleau, less than an hour outside of Paris. The famous Renaissance king, Roi François Ier, lived here (for one), as did Napoleon. While there, not the decorations include salamanders (symbol of François Ier), and the letter F (François!) and N (Napoleon). It's a very do-able day trip. Look for excursions that could take you there by bus, or figure out how to use the Metro and suburban trains, and a local bus once you arrive at the train station. (By the way, many people recommend the château of Vaux le Vicomte. I'll tell you... I don't recommend it. It was expensive to get to, and awkward, because you have to get an (expensive) cab from the train station, and I just wasn't wowed.)
Chartres -- Another day trip I highly recommend, is out to see the town of Chartres, and its magnificent mediéval cathédrale, boasting Romanesque carvings on the front façade (including Eleanor of Aquitaine and her then husband, King Louis VII), but the most incredible mediéval stained glass anywhere. Especially with Notre Dame de Paris having been put out of commission for the foreseeable future, Chartres cathedral is a fabulous choice, if you want to see a Gothic cathedral. It's my hands-down favorite. The town is charming, as well. It's important to see a small town, when visiting France. Here are suggestions for how to get there.
Concert at Sainte Chapelle or the church of Saint-Germain-des-Près
My sister has done this, and so has a French friend . I think it is a wonderful evening idea, if you like classical or ancient music. This link talks about Sainte Chapelle and the concerts and takes you directly to the website for the June concerts there. This link takes you to the same website, but for Saint Germain des Pres church.
Christmastime in Paris!
• Definitely go to the fabulous, huge department store, Les Galéries Lafayettes once their Christmas decorations are up! This is a beautiful store at any time, but they are famous for their huge Christmas tree in the center of the 3-story store, under the big stained-glass dome roof! Also, they do an amazing outside light display at night, during the Noël holidays! This is a really helpful website about what you'll see there, and how to get there. Note that there is a separate, smaller store in the Montparnasse area, but you'll want to go to the main location, 40 Blvd Haussmann (all info on location and how to get there, here.)
• Christmas markets and other Christmas festivities: the Galéries Lafayettes website has some really good information, here!
Boat Cruise On the Seine
I love doing this! It’s relaxing. It’s nice to do late in the day, or early to mid evening. Three companies offer cruises at different times --- also, note that they have different kinds of cruises (in French, “Les Croisières”). They have expensive night-time ones that include dinner. I like just the open-air boat cruises.
Vedettes du Pont Neuf: This is the company we used this summer. We liked it! Just choose the “One hour Seine Cruise”. You can buy your ticket right on site. We just walked up and bought the tickets and boarded, probably around 8 pm, but they run all day long. You can stop at their refreshments window and get a soda or bottle of water, etc., to drink while you relax (a little pricey--tourism, you know!).
Bateaux Mouches: They have open-air cruises every 30 minutes between 10am and 10:30pm. You can buy tickets on site.
Bateaux Parisiens: This is another one of the companies. They have a getting-on spot near the Eiffel Tower, and another that is along the Seine, near Notre Dame. Choose the “Cruise with commentary”
WHERE TO BUY GROCERIES
Everyone goes to Monoprix! Or, Monop', as the locals say. Some are just small grocery stores, some are actually just small Target-like stores, some are a combo. They're all over. Here's their website. Another chain with small stores in Paris, is Carréfour... their Paris stores are Carrefour Express ... just search for them with your Google map. Here is the one at 43 Boulevard Saint Germain, Paris 5e.
OFFICIAL PARIS TOURISM OFFICE
Here is a link to the official website. Feel free to browse it, and ask me about anything you have more questions about. This is a non-official website with some good info.
UPDATE 2022
I always much prefer the convenience of a day-long on-and-off-whenever-you-like pass, rather than buying individual tickets every time you get on or off. Paris Metro no longer uses single paper tickets, however, you can buy electronic versions of single tickets (t-tickets), and upload them onto the new "Navigo Easy pass" for visitors to the city (residents have a different kind of card, tied to their bank accounts). It's a pass that you buy, and then can "load" travel onto. Read about it here. or on the official RATP (Paris transport system name) website, here. This explains the t-ticket, and there is a link to the Navigo Easy Pass info, at the bottom. However, I'd give this website a look, too... it is also very informative about Metro and Train travel to, from, and inside of Paris, including the latest info on the Paris Visite card. The Paris Visite card is for tourists, allowing them to buy a pass for 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 days, starting whenever you purchase it (as opposed to a weekly regular pass for non-tourists, the regular Navigo, which is only Monday through Monday).
Everything you’ll do in Paris will be in Zone 1, I don’t think you’d even be in Zone 2, so you can limit your pass to that area. If you're arriving in Paris at the train station, after taking the Eurostar train over from London (through the Channel Tunnel!)... that station where you arrive, is called the Gare du Nord. You'll be able to find a ticket window there, for the Metro. (In the Gare [=Train Station], if signs say, "Grandes Lignes", that will head you to the area where the big train lines are going. Since you'll be looking to find the Metro (subway) lines, look for signs that say Metro. [NOTE: There are machines where you can buy tickets, too. Sometimes, though, American credit cards don't work in them. Mine worked last time, though.] Also, there is probably a Tourist Information desk (might be called, "Bureau d'Acceuil")... if you see one, you can go there to get your Paris Visite Metro passes, if you're going to use those.
USING THE METRO: Each line has a number, but you also need to notice what the name of the LAST stop is in each direction, so that you get on the train headed the way you need to go. For example, line 4 is one of the lines that stops at Gare du Nord. The last stop on the south end of line 4, is called, Mairie de Montrouge. The last stop at the north end, is called, Porte de Clignancourt. So... if you are at Gare du Nord, and you need to head south to get to your next Metro stop, you look for signs that say, "DIRECTION Mairie de Montrouge". That will head you to the platform to get on the line-4 train that is heading the direction you need to go.
Once you get off of your train, look for the big signs that head you either to an exit (SORTIE), or to where to head to switch to another train (CORRESPONDANCE) -- see images at the end of this post.
Here is the official RATP website, English version (RATP is the Paris transports company), with links to info about access to airports, and transport when visiting Paris . They mention the Paris Visite card, because they prefer that tourists use that. The page also explains how to use the Paris Subway (the Metro), and you can plug in the station where you are, and the one you want to go to, and it will tell you which lines to use, and where to switch trains, if needed. There are links there to maps… the one with streets, too, is a good one. There is also an app available somewhere, for your phone.
Eating in Paris
One thing to know about dining in Paris, is that dinner at a restaurant is never available before at least 7:30 pm (they use the 24 hour clock, and the symbol “h” for “o’clock”, so 7:30 pm is 19h30).
Lunch is pretty much set to maybe between noon and 2 (14h).
But, cafés might serve more at any time, though their food menus are much more limited (baguette sandwich with ham or cheese or both, or a salad, or a Croque-Monsieur, which is sort of yummy grilled ham-and-cheese sandwich that usually has a creamy béchamel sauce over it…you eat it with knife and fork). Another kind of low-key food place is a Bistrot or a Brasserie, will be more likely to have more food choices, available at different hours. This is a good web page in English about tips about dining, tipping, etc.
Of real restaurants, I can recommend these two, and then the Pizza restaurant below. The first two are very traditional fare, and definite favorites of my food-loving American friend, Ken Broadhurst, who lives in the Loire Valley of France now. He has written about these first two restaurants on his blog. They are on the same block of the same (busy) street, along the Seine river.
Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond
24, rue de la Grande Truanderie, 75001 Paris (map link)
(Metro stop “Etienne Marcel” on line 4)
A bouillon type of restaurant is an old classic... all-day service (this one is open noon to midnight, every day). Here is their menu in English.
They are non-fussy, with traditional cuisine, and sometimes you get seated right next to other diners.
Véronique Savoye, a tour guide with Rick Steves, shared a video of a recent visit there, showing you how charming the place is. She highly recommends it, and goes there when she visits Paris.
Le Trumilou
84, Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (Metro stop “Pont Marie” on line 7 OR stop “Hôtel de Ville” on both lines 1 and 11.)
http://ckenb.blogspot.com/2008/06/food-at-trumilou-restaurant.html
another on having lunch the first time at le Trumilou (from Ken’s blog)
Google maps link
Pizza Vesuvio (Saint Germain location)
1, rue Gozlin, 75006 Paris (Metro line 4, Stop: Saint-Germain-des-Pres)
I always end up at Pizza Vesuvio when I go to Paris. Great location (because I love the 6th arrondissement), and I lived in a boarding house around the corner when I was a student in Paris. Great wood-fire pizza, and other Italian fare. I bring friends here! (And, if you go there, check out the Romanesque-into-Gothic small church, Saint-Germain-des-Près... I LOVE this neighborhood.)
Here it is on Trip Advisor
Here it is on Google maps
For a really more bohemian, ethnic Eating Experience:
L'as du Fallafel (The Ace/Champion of Fallafel!)
I loved this place! But, it's a noisy, busy, crowded, young people kind of place... not a traditional sit-down-relax-eat-a-traditional-meal kind of place (so, keep that in mind). What it does offer is fabulous Mediterranean and Kosher noshes. Lots of offerings for vegetarians, but meat is offered, too. They are especially known for thieir huge falafel take-away sandwiches, but I preferred eating inside (the line was much shorter for that, too). English shouldn't be a problem here. It was delicious, and I had a huge plate of tasty treats. We went at lunch time. The Marais is also a great, old Paris neighborhood.
34 rue de Rosiers (the Marais section of Paris)-- 4th arrondissement
Métro: Line 1, stop: Saint-Paul
An area to walk in that is so Paris!
It’s in the 6th arrondissement, the Saint Germain area…. Rue de Buci, where it hits rue de Seine. You can take rue de Seine all the way down to the Seine. I like the skinny streets, and the daily morning market that is until noon, I think, at this corner.
Go to Google maps and just put in the café/bar that is on that corner, to get a map of the area and check it out. The bar is “Bar du marché”, 75 rue de Seine, 75006 Paris. (here is a direct google maps link to the corner of Rue de Buci and Rue de Seine )To get to that area, take line 4 of the Metro to the Saint Germain des Près metro stop: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paris_Métro_Line_4
That will let you out right at Boulevard Saint Germain (a main boulevard that’s good for walking and seeing cafés and shops), with rue de Rennes crossing it very close by (another street that, if you take it alllll the way AWAY from this area, will have you passing lots of shops of many kinds, and it has good side streets).
Right there at Boulevard Saint Germain and rue de Rennes/rue Bonaparte, you’ll see the very famous (and overpriced) café, Les Deux Magots. It’s across rue Bonaparte from a wonderful Romanesque era church, Saint-Germain-des-Près—the site of the oldest church in Paris.
Café de Flore is on the other side of Les Deux Magots, and both were ultra famous for being where the Existentialists (like Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir) used to hang out all day (in fact, there is a plaque to them on that corner somewhere).
So… to get to the Buci area, take Boulevard Saint Michel away from Les Deux Magots, pass Saint-Germain des Près church, and after rue Cardinale and rue de l’échaudé, you’ll hit Buci. Just take that and go exploring. When you hit rue de Seine, go left, and you’re heading in the direction of the Seine, and Notre Dame cathedral! A nice street that is great for the antiques-shopping crowd, is rue Jacob. I’ve stayed on a couple of hotels here (Hotel d’Angleterre and Millésime). You could take rue Jacob to rue Bonaparte, and take that down to the Seine, or just stay on rue de Seine as it winds down to the Seine. All of the side streets have little shops and little hotels. Just thought I’d point out a spot that I love to walk around in. (By the way, you can also take line 10 to the Mabillon Metro stop, but that stop isn’t always open, so S-G-des Près is a better bet.)
Walk Around Here!
This area is where Boulevard Saint Michel meets the Seine... see Notre Dame over there? Woo hoo! This is Pont St Michel. This is an interesting (and famous) fountain/monument here, called Fontaine Saint-Michel. Apparently, it depicts the archangel Michael vanquishing the devil, "evoking thoughts of the battle between good and evil" Take Metro line 4 to the Saint-Michel-Notre-Dame stop. This is a map view of the area. Notice the Art Nouveau style green iron sign and wall at the entry/exit to the Saint Michel Métro stop here. That's by artist Hector Guimard, who designed these for many of the early Métro stops in Paris.
The Latin Quarter
This is kind of the Paris that everyone thinks of when they think of little shops, little restaurants, and bohemian Paris (which also means, kind of old and a little seedy). It's the old (centuries old) center of university life, with the Sorbonne being nearby. It's all narrow streets and lots of life (and pickpockets again! Hold those purses close to you, zipped up, strapped across your body!). It's hard to say where exactly to go, but rue Mouffetard is a famous little street. Start here, at the Place de la Contrescarpe, and there's rue Lacépède behind you, and, to the left, is rue Mouffetard (where you see an old orange truck-looking-car, and the "Le Contrescarpe" café on the left). Lots of places to eat, or to grab take-away food from a window, and just walk around and soak in the old Paris feel. Note that it's especially lively and busy in the evening/night. To get to the area, try Metro line 7, stop Place Monge. Here's a map.
Rue Cler neighborhood
If you love the feeling of strolling down a cobbled street lined with food shops and market vendors, this is a wonderful spot to visit, in the 7th arrondissement. Rick Steves introduces it in this 4-minute video (which starts with him on a sight-seeing boat on the Seine... see below). The Paris Perfect website talks about visiting this street, here, with some great photos. Note that many of the stores are closed on Mondays. This Google maps Streetview link plops you down in the middle of the street, and this one brings you to the navigable map. Metro stop École Militaire, on line 8 of the Métro, gets you closest.
Paris Art & History Museums
(check links for websites with hours, cost, and Metro line & stop)
• Louvre – closed Tuesdays – Well… you’re going here, so… enjoy! Then, stroll around the Jardin des Tuileries park area across the road, where the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel is (this isn’t “THE” Arc de Triomphe… that one is on the Champs Elysées). This link to streetview of Google maps, has the Louvre pyramid to the left, and the Tuileries gardens to the right!
• Musée d’Orsay –closed Mondays – has wonderful Impressionist paintings (and similar era other styles… Van Gogh, Renoir, Cézanne, etc., Rodin and Claudel sculptures, Art Nouveau objects – wonderful place, built inside what used to be a train station. We very much enjoyed lunch at the restaurant, too. More info here at this Wikipedia page. Here is their official website.
• Cité de l’Architecture et de la Patrimoine -- closed Tuesdays--This is not really well known by tourists, but it is a great spot that I love to go to… because it has “mock ups” of all of the facades of well known cathedrals around France --- like the façade of Vézelay! Another link, to info in English. Metro stop Trocadero (lines 6 & 9)
• Musée de Cluny -- Musée National du Moyen Âge (Museum of medieval art and history)! -- closed Mondays-- One of my favorites, because I love medieval and Renaissance era things, like stained glass and stone carving and tapestries and enluminures (painted manuscripts and books). The amazing and very famous 6 tapestries of The Lady and the Unicorn are on display here. These depict the 5 senses, as well as the "sense" of desire, and are thought to have been commissioned by a man for his daughter, on the event of her marriage. Here's a quick video from travel writer Rick Steves, showing the Cluny and the tapestries.
• For more modern tastes, the famous Centre Pompidou in the Marais section (4th arrondissement) is something to see, even if just to see the really unusual design, but for really good contemporary art, there is the amazing Musée d'Art Moderne de Paris. Here's their basic info English version of the website. Closed on Mondays.
Non Art-Museum Things
Cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris: Towers (Tours) of Notre Dame • cathedral itself •
Parvis de Notre Dame (a sort of archeological crypt, under the area in front of the cathedral). UPDATE 2022: Obviously, since the big fire, Notre Dame is still closed to visitors, as it undergoes repairs.
The MAGNIFICENT Sainte Chapelle – Open every day--This is the place that Louis IX (Saint Louis) had built to house the crown of thorns relic. His symbols were the fleur de lys and the crown (for his father’s French royal heritage, and his mother’s Spanish royal heritage). They are the decorative elements all over the chapel. The upstairs has INCREDIBLE stained glass, that has recently been all cleaned and fully restored (at a cost of millions of Euros). There was an interesting little video playing up there, showing the work of the restoration. I love it. They also have classical music concerts on some evenings…. There is info below, about that. Not cheap, but very, very memorable.
Ste. Chapelle is actually on the grounds of the French government’s Palais de Justice… at this Google maps streetview link, you see the big black and gold gates of the grounds. That’s where you go in to head to Ste. Chapelle (you can see its pointy, Gothic spires sticking up back there!). Across the street, to the left, if you’re on the streetview, is a very nice Brasserie, called Les Deux Palais. I’ve eaten here twice. METRO LINE 4 , Stop: Cité
Jardin du Luxembourg – Luxembourg Gardens park. Free. It’s wonderful. Very big, and a relaxing place to get away from the noise and traffic and hectic pace of the city outside its walls. There is a spot with statues of the queens of France (interesting fact: unlike England, France never allowed reigning queens, so all French queens were just the wife of the reigning king), there is a puppet-show spot, there are shady spots, there are open and sunny spots to sit around the large pond. There is a palace there (I’ve never actually been inside! It’s used for something official.) There’s even a little Statue of Liberty somewhere. It’s a big space. In June, probably lots of flowers will be in bloom!
Eiffel Tower – (la Tour Eiffel)--I know that everyone wants to go UP the Eiffel Tower – but, I’ll tell you, that costs a good amount of TIME, and is kind of expensive (links on info). The TIME factor is the big one for me. If you don’t have a week in Paris, you might consider skipping the idea of going UP it, and instead, wait to go to the Eiffel Tower until late in the day, near dusk (which is very late, in the summer), because that’s when it is all lit up, and then it SPARKLES (!) for five minutes every hour, on the hour--- in the summer, it doesn’t start sparkling until at least the 10 pm (=22h) hour. So, you could avoid the lines and expense of going up, and just enjoy its beauty from underneath, or next to it. It’s something to do during the evening--- maybe plan to get there around 8:30 or 8:45, or so, so you can see it sparkle at 10 and 11 and probably midnight). You can also see it from way across the way, at the Palais de Chaillot --- you don’t have to go in to the Palais de Chaillot, but you would take the Metro or a cab or a bus to there (the stop is Trocadero, line 9, or line 6), and you’ll see that it’s a great area to observe the Eiffel Tower from a little distance. There is a huge length of steps there, that people sit on and take in the view. This Google map shows you kind of where all of that is situated, and then this link takes you to the streetview up where you enter the area of the Place du Trocadero (where the Palais de Chaillot is). Then, this streetview link shows you more of the Place du Trocadero as you walk closer in to the edge of it. This streetview link takes you down to the area around the water and the fountains of Place du Trocadero, closer to the street level of the Tower (but still across the busy street, at the base of the Palais de Chaillot). (OF course, this is another heavy pickpocket area, so just keep everything close and carefully held onto.)
Arc de Triomphe—The famous monument on the Champs Elysées. It’s smack dab in the middle of a hugely busy, multi-lane road, so, to get to it, you use the underground path. You can enjoy it from across the road, or enjoy it from standing right underneath, or you can actually climb up it, for a fee (covered by the pass). Here’s info. This is a NOTRORIOUS spot for pickpockets and other people harassing tourists, pretending to be your friend, welcoming you to Paris, trying to sell you things, or distract you while someone else picks your pocket. We were bothered by a guy who came up to us and tried to tie a “friendship string” around my finger, or something (as you can imagine, Elliot and I looked clearly like American tourists). I’m not sure what he was after, but those kinds of distraction techniques are typical when setting people up to be pickpocketed by someone else. They’ll act all offended when you tell them to go away, but they have no business invading your space, so feel free to tell them strongly to leave you alone. I was able to do it in French, yet he remained persistent, which was annoying.
Conciergerie – I have never been in here, though almost everyone goes here, and I have always wanted to! It always ends up closed when I have time to go. I’m not fully sure of what you see here, but it’s medieval, and it was the prison where they kept Marie Antoinette and King Louis. Here’s tourist info.
Auberge Nicolas Flamel-- This is reportedly the oldest auberge in Paris, and, if you're a fan of Harry Potter, you recognize the name of Nicolas Flamel! There was a real Nicolas Flamel--he and his wife, Pernelle, ran an inn, and did other things (they weren't exactly what the HP character was about... JK just used the name, mostly). It's fun just to walk by and see--you don't have to actually try to eat in the expensive restaurant. It's in the Marais.
A Castle Right In Paris! -- Le Château de Vincennes is a mediéval fortified castle, on the southeast edge of Paris, actually just outside the border of Paris, and into the suburb of Vincennes. It has been restored, and you can walk around outside, or go in (for a fee). If you don't have time to go to Le Val de Loire to see famous ruins of royal castles, it's a cool place to visit.
A Wonderful Palace -- Day trip to the Palace of Fontainebleau -- Everyone goes to the hugely overblown, glitzy Palace of Versailles. It has the this-is-what-led-up-to-the-Revolution gaudiness everywhere... crystal, gold, etc. For me, though, I much prefer a visit to the Palais de Fontainebleau, in the town of Fontainebleau, less than an hour outside of Paris. The famous Renaissance king, Roi François Ier, lived here (for one), as did Napoleon. While there, not the decorations include salamanders (symbol of François Ier), and the letter F (François!) and N (Napoleon). It's a very do-able day trip. Look for excursions that could take you there by bus, or figure out how to use the Metro and suburban trains, and a local bus once you arrive at the train station. (By the way, many people recommend the château of Vaux le Vicomte. I'll tell you... I don't recommend it. It was expensive to get to, and awkward, because you have to get an (expensive) cab from the train station, and I just wasn't wowed.)
Chartres -- Another day trip I highly recommend, is out to see the town of Chartres, and its magnificent mediéval cathédrale, boasting Romanesque carvings on the front façade (including Eleanor of Aquitaine and her then husband, King Louis VII), but the most incredible mediéval stained glass anywhere. Especially with Notre Dame de Paris having been put out of commission for the foreseeable future, Chartres cathedral is a fabulous choice, if you want to see a Gothic cathedral. It's my hands-down favorite. The town is charming, as well. It's important to see a small town, when visiting France. Here are suggestions for how to get there.
Concert at Sainte Chapelle or the church of Saint-Germain-des-Près
My sister has done this, and so has a French friend . I think it is a wonderful evening idea, if you like classical or ancient music. This link talks about Sainte Chapelle and the concerts and takes you directly to the website for the June concerts there. This link takes you to the same website, but for Saint Germain des Pres church.
Christmastime in Paris!
• Definitely go to the fabulous, huge department store, Les Galéries Lafayettes once their Christmas decorations are up! This is a beautiful store at any time, but they are famous for their huge Christmas tree in the center of the 3-story store, under the big stained-glass dome roof! Also, they do an amazing outside light display at night, during the Noël holidays! This is a really helpful website about what you'll see there, and how to get there. Note that there is a separate, smaller store in the Montparnasse area, but you'll want to go to the main location, 40 Blvd Haussmann (all info on location and how to get there, here.)
• Christmas markets and other Christmas festivities: the Galéries Lafayettes website has some really good information, here!
Boat Cruise On the Seine
I love doing this! It’s relaxing. It’s nice to do late in the day, or early to mid evening. Three companies offer cruises at different times --- also, note that they have different kinds of cruises (in French, “Les Croisières”). They have expensive night-time ones that include dinner. I like just the open-air boat cruises.
Vedettes du Pont Neuf: This is the company we used this summer. We liked it! Just choose the “One hour Seine Cruise”. You can buy your ticket right on site. We just walked up and bought the tickets and boarded, probably around 8 pm, but they run all day long. You can stop at their refreshments window and get a soda or bottle of water, etc., to drink while you relax (a little pricey--tourism, you know!).
Bateaux Mouches: They have open-air cruises every 30 minutes between 10am and 10:30pm. You can buy tickets on site.
Bateaux Parisiens: This is another one of the companies. They have a getting-on spot near the Eiffel Tower, and another that is along the Seine, near Notre Dame. Choose the “Cruise with commentary”
WHERE TO BUY GROCERIES
Everyone goes to Monoprix! Or, Monop', as the locals say. Some are just small grocery stores, some are actually just small Target-like stores, some are a combo. They're all over. Here's their website. Another chain with small stores in Paris, is Carréfour... their Paris stores are Carrefour Express ... just search for them with your Google map. Here is the one at 43 Boulevard Saint Germain, Paris 5e.
OFFICIAL PARIS TOURISM OFFICE
Here is a link to the official website. Feel free to browse it, and ask me about anything you have more questions about. This is a non-official website with some good info.
Inside the Louvre's Pyramid entry!